Grant's Tomb and Riverside Church

Grant's Tomb and Riverside Church are two structures you can't help but look up at.  The problem is many New Yorkers just don't make the trip to Morningside Heights to see them.  I finally did a few weekends ago, and can't believe I've waited so long.  

Situated across the intersection of Riverside Drive and 122nd Street from each other, they are both imposingly beautiful buildings inside and out, from top to bottom.

Let's take a look at both, starting with Riverside Church.  The Neo-Gothic church was built in 1930 and primarily financed by John D. Rockefeller.  I love it's pale exterior of Indiana limestone.  Just looks so fresh and clean.

The exterior buttressing is purely decorative... The structure is supported on its steel frame, and its weight would not be sufficient to counter the weight of the vault. 

The tower holds the world's largest tuned carillon bell and makes Riverside the tallest church in the United States.  It is also the first of its kind to serve a functional purpose, providing 24 floors for the congregation's programs. 

Of course, I love all the details of the ornamentation...

 A bird's nest...

Moving inside the church now...

The church was designed by the firm of Allen, Pelton and Collens, and modeled on the nave the 13th century Chartres Cathedral in France. 

Looking up at some of the windows, chandeliers and ceilings...

After exiting Riverside Church, you just need to cross the street to visit the General Grant National Memorial.  The final resting place of Civil War General and US President Ulysses S. Grant (and his wife), it is the largest tomb in North America. 

Designed by architect John Duncan, the granite and marble structure was completed in 1897. Rendered in an eclectic neoclassical style, the monument is adorned by Doric columns on the lower level and a cupola above. It rises 150 feet above the ground and over 280 feet above the banks of the Hudson River.   

I visited a few days after the anniversary of Grant's birth, so the tomb was decorated with American flag bunting.  On the facade of the Tomb is the epitaph, "LET US HAVE PEACE," a quote taken from Grant's acceptance of the Republican nomination for president that would characterize the ultimate aims of his public career. Allegorical figures probably representing Victory and Peace (sculpted by J. Massey Rhind) are depicted on either side of the sign, marking Grant's importance both in war and in peace.

 Are these legos...

Since this is the actual tomb of Grant and his wife, the interior is much more reserved and solemn, but no less spectacular.  The Italian marble walls are adorned with classical motifs and amber tinted windows. Three mosaics depicting important battles and other events from Grant's life were added in 1966.

 The mosaic featuring Robert E. Lee's surrender to Grant at Appomattox.

The twin sarcophagi of Grant and his wife Julia on the lower level are based on that of Napoleon Bonaparte at Les Invalides. They are made of red granite from Wisconsin, and each weighs over 8 tons.

 The structure is topped by a beautiful coffered dome...

By the looks of the memorial today, you would never know that in the 1970s and 1980s, it was a national disgrace, having fell victim to vandalism and apathy. Graffiti and damage was extensive. The grounds were used by the homeless, drug dealers, and prostitutes. Thankfully, a massive restoration was undertaken in the 1990s. 

To learn more about the restoration and the tomb's early history (including the selection of New York City as its location, and its funding, construction, and dedication), you should check out the informative web site of the Grant Monument Association.

Before I end, I would be remiss if I didn't mention the classic riddle, "Who is buried in Grant's Tomb?" The riddle was popularized by Groucho Marx on his game show You Bet Your Life. While Marx would ask these types of questions-with-obvious-answers to contestants to ensure that they won something on his show, the riddle can also be used as a trick question... If the responder answers "Ulysses Grant," it can be considered wrong, either for forgetting or not knowing that Julia Grant is there also, or for erroneously going along with the "buried" part of the question (Grant and his wife are actually entombed, not buried).